alexandre grynagier
Mr_props
3D modeler,
Designer,
Artist
Mr_props @memora7Hi memora7. The main difference is that you get xhat is needed to make the 3
of these, as shown on the picture.
Mr_props @LJawesome. It was made using maya. In fact blender may have been a suitable choice aswell.
Mr_props @Parasol. Hi! The model can be painted, but you need to find a resilient paint like oil paints. It will wear arounf the joints and this is no surprise, it depends how you handle it. It is possble to string the whole thing using nylon. It makes the character more 'loose' but it works. I guess the paint doesn't get has much damaged as with metal wire, so that's probably a safe solution. The nylon wire i used was a product mad for jewelry to string beads together. The character could not hold standing poses but it was fine in other regards.
Mr_props @Airsaber. Hi! WSF is quite strong, now if you are unsure about how strong it is (sometimes the laser is not blending the layers correctly), you can strenghen the smallest part after sanding using liquid cyanoacrylate glue (not the gel). It take a little while to harden, but at least it has time to get between the layers. When this is done, i don't think you should have any issue with the steel wire. But you have to make sure all the pieces are hollow and that there's no printing powder left inside before doing so. Some glues are sold with a brush, it is convenient only if the model has no posder left, and is completely dry. You can do this before sanding, and in fact it could make sanding a little easier. Good luck :)
Mr_props @Airsaber. Hi! FUD doesn't need much sanding, and 800 would be a better choce, probably finishing with polishing cream. But i guess you ordered the White strong and flexible which is a little tedious to sand, so i would use 400. But that's a fair choice since this material is very sturdy. You may find it interesting to use a car body primer (like styrene based) to fill the deepest holes before sanding. In this case please make sure you got rid of all the printing powder first, as it would be glued by the putty. You can get this product either as a spry, or something to mix with solvent to make it more liquid and dip the pieces inside. If you'd really have a semi glossy white plastic, of course, you can't use that at all, and sanding will be the only solution i'm afraid. That's why i prefer FUD: If the pieces stay about 24>48h inside white spirit, they become white (but still slightly transluscent). However, it is not possible to control how white they get, and it can either affect a thin layer of the surface or the inside aswell depending on factors i didn't fully understand yet. The wire you suggest to use is something i use myself, but i feel like the result has some kind of elasticity i don't like too much. I'm not mostly using annealed aluminium. It breaks relatively fast in comparison, but it is very mobile, and tends to keep the exact pose given. Now your choice would be more durable i you used 0.3/0.5mm steel wire, as it is more resilient than copper or aluminium. It is also affordable and way easier to find than annealed aluminium wire. I hope i answered your questions, please feel free if i didn't. Good luck, and thanks :)
Mr_props @Lrrh. This was the basic idea. In fact if you want to make a new face, the easiest would be to wet the head connector with its wires, and surround it with a piece of fresh greenstuff. Because of the water, it shouldn't stick to the connector itself. It is then possible, when this part has hardened, to sculpt a new face upon it. I usually use a retarder that helps the water to evaporate more slowly, so i'm sure the greenstuff won't stick at all. This kind of ptoduct can be found with acrylic paint supplies.
Mr_props @Oubli3tt3. Hello! In fact you have to make sure all the printing powder has been removed and extracted from the holes before you apply a primer, otherwise it will mix together and create a putty that you would need to drill. If you have a dremel tool, or anything to connect to a 2mm diameter drill bit, it should be ok. You can string this model using elastic strings, just as for the previous version, i simply tend to prefer metal wire as it hold the poses in a more convincing way. The holes for the arms may be a little small, but it should work nonetheless. Just make sure you remove any printing powder esidue before applying the primer and it should be ok. A toothpick is all you need for this part of the job, although a 7 cm long piano wire bit of 1mm diamter is what i prefer to use.
Mr_props @txoso. Hi! There's a stringed version (alpha ego series) i prototyped but it is not finished yet. It will be 1/20 scale, that's a strange scale i know but that's the smallest i manage without endangering the printing process. I hope i can start selling it by september. Thanks :)
Mr_props @syphon79. Hi! Oil or acrylics would be the best. It will look muchy better if you snad the surface as the materials' surface is rather porous.
Mr_props @Graphix. Hello. You can use aluminium wire if you can find the right diameter. Annealed steel wire is much easier to find in 0.35 and 0.5mm diameter. However annealed aluminium wire can be sanded to the right size, but that's a lot more tedious. You can probably find 0.5 mmm aluminium wire and it should be ok with the legs, but the hole for the arms is much smaller.
Mr_props @bethclaire. Thank you for your comment :)
Mr_props You are welcome :)
Mr_props @Jasmiena. Hello! I think that's a tricky thing to do, and although i may imagine some solutions, i don't thing any of them is easy to process. I guess you would have to drill the orbits from the outside, then insert the eyeball, then resculpt the eyelids. I'm not sure that's easy, and i have no idea what you could use for the eyeballs since these would need to be rather small. Good luck if you try!
Mr_props @alicezinn143, That's way enough time for me to finish these new versions. The new versions will be slighly more simple, and printed with WSF, they will require some work for a better finish, but the material being more tough, it is also much easier. I'll try to keep you updated about these.
Mr_props @alicezinn143. hello! I am currently witing for prototypes so i could have both male and female bodies printed in white strong and flexible. Developping these is hard as the printing specs for WSF are more demanding, and result in stronger but also bulkier designs. I hope i can figure out a solution by the end of the month though. Thank you for the picture by the way, nice build!
Mr_props @TowlesCK. Hello! Please make sure there's no printing powder trapped in the joints. this happens more often with the coloured material as it kind of glues the remaining printing powder. It should be easy to remove though. Now all the printing specifications of this mesh push the printing process to its limits, and depending on the orientation of the model during printing, the result will be different. Please don't hesitate if you have too much trouble with this model, so i can find a suitable solution.
Mr_props @cesarframesps. I never tried, but on this model, i guess it is possible. Don't use the polished material though, it would be useless i think. i'll try next month if i can order one of these. Paint should be ok, except if you'd like to have a very shiny result, as there would be a lot of sanding to do, and putty would be more than an option.
Mr_props @Mdphotos. Hi! The angel is the same model as the female model minus the breasts, while the male version has a wider torso. The difference is subtle...
Mr_props @CletusKasadyIII. Me too ! Unfortunately, the price will be so high i can't even pay for a single prototype... Each part has to be cast one by one, which raises the cost horribly. Sprues are not possible due to there sizes and wire printing limitations... I hope one day there will be a solution, because 300$ for this eems a little high... The other aspect is that if made with metal, the design needs a drastic change since the parts would not snap. It means screws are required, and joints adjustments aswell.
Mr_props @airshiphope. Sorry for the late answer. I'm still trying to have a bare feet model, but as i explained to another customer, i will need to switch to frosted ultra detail and have it stringed as the parts would be too small for white strong and flexible, and the joints would be either loose or too tight, and i would not be able to gain a control on that as each print is sligtly different. Thank you for your comment! Best,
Mr_props @Silvermender. Hi! Unfortunately for now i didn't design yet a character both with this kind of design, and a high level of articulations at a bigger scale. For now the alter ego FUD is the best i could manage but i'll probably try to make the same kind of design in the next mounths.
Mr_props @Oubli3tt3. Thank you for this valuable information. I couldn't find this myself, and given the fact these seemed quite hard to find, i gave up thinking that nobody would be able to put a hand on these. I'll order some of these soon to start iterating a new face design. Thanks again :)
Mr_props @Oubli3tt3. Hi! I would be quite interested to get samples of these eyes you are talking about as i made a research one year ago and the smallest ic ould find was 5mm, which is still to big. If i succeed to get some of these, i'll make an update. Thank you for your comments :)
Mr_props @airshiphope. Hi! I'm currently working on another version, quite different from this one. The specifications for Polyamide are quite tough to deal with and the surface's aspect is not my favorite. I'm working on a stringed version, with slightly different proportions, meant to be stringed and printed in FUD. It is closer to the alpha ego doll design. It will be more expensive than tis one, probably around 25$, and will require some stringing. However it is possible to make the parts a lot more thin in UV resin. The resin would break if trying to make parts that snap together, this is why it needs to be stringed if using a better material. On the other hand, it is possible to make parts so thin that theres' a good chance of success for bare feet. I just need to figure out if the shoes are still needed as an option or not. The reasons why this one has shoes are the minimum wall thickness allowed, the fact that ball joints do not work too well if the ball itself is smaller than 4mm in diameter, (due to printing precision and the fact this material is not isotropic), and to finish with, i simply wanted to have big feet so the character would stand on his own. Thank you for your helpfull comments!
Mr_props @Cykstro. Unfortunately not. Sorry i missed your post, i was very busy in the last months. The thing is, unpolished polyamide allows more daring strucutres to be printed, and this one reaches every bound!
Mr_props @benjamin_collins_1995. It should work, after all this is a modified ego model, and it was the purpose. Now i'm not talking about custom pieces, as i didn't check.
Mr_props @TotallyNotTheDevil. Hello! I'm sorry, but creating sprues is a real hell, and there were too many troubles adpting the model to 'polished' guidelines. The objects would be polished unevenly creating issues with the joints, and the sprue may break. However, you may get a smooth surface finish by using thick car body primer, but i have to admit it still requires some work, mostly sanding. Changing the size might be hard, as polyamide is quite sturdy, and you would have to cut neack limb in the middle to add a piece of plactic, glue with cyanoacrylate or epoxy, then sand/prime/sand. Feasable, but a tough work. Good luck :)
Mr_props @kingjulio. Hi! This one is quite small: 74mm tall, although each print might be slightly different (expect -/+ 1mm). I suggest you try the link in the product's description so you get a better idea of what this is. Have a nice day!
Mr_props @ebongear. Hi! I'm afraid the size you are talking about would be extremely expensive. I used to sell a 1/6 scale bjd before, and the price increases drasticaly with the volume since it is an exponent of 3 that we are talking about. As a result the price would pop up to about 250$ for a mesh without optimisation. Maybe 150$ after optimization. I'm not sure anyone would be interested for such a price...
Mr_props @angermuffin. Thank you for your comment. You are probably right about the knees, it is hard to make them both functional and looking good... Maybe i'll iterate something someday... I'd love to see what you did with those!
Mr_props @guillen_alejandro. Hi! I'm running a few prototypes right now to try decreasing the size. Due to the extremely small size of the model (well it is quite small), i had to switch to a stringed doll structure and it needs to be printed in frosted ultra detail. I hope i'll be able to make the model available for sale soon (if the prototypes turns out to be ok). It is not possible to simply scale it down due to material specifications. Thank you for asking, Have a nice day!
Mr_props @Brandon_T. Hi! I'll order a prototype first to make sure it is ok. Thank you for notifying me :)
Mr_props Hi CF4000. Unfortunately not. This is because the size of the sprues need to be ridiculously big. It would be quite hard to separate the pieces, and it could easily result in heavy damage.
Mr_props @jokerjester_campos. Hi! A lego head would work, but i don't like the idea because it would be put on a ball jpoint instead of a stud. The ball joint is the same size as a stud so it should work, but there's a risk the assembly will be loose.
Mr_props neo ego de alexandre grynagier est mis à disposition selon les termes de la licence Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International.Fondé(e) sur une œuvre à http://www.shapeways.com/product/3NY5VPGKT/neo-ego?li=search-results-1&optionId=42411694.
Mr_props @mechking4511. Thanks! In fact it is possible to fit a lego head instead of the character's head as the diameter of the ball joint is the same as the diameter of a simple stud.
Mr_props @JomasterII. Hi! It is possible, however, due to the ball and socket articulation, it is not possible to fit the head on a lego minifig torso. Thank :)
Mr_props @echoplexic. I'm afraid most of us are as small child when it comes to thios material. It is tedious to master the post processing part, and althought there were many discussions in the forum about painting it, there's no perfect solution yet, axcept some fairly tedious ones. The best advice i can give is to really leave it for long inside the white spirit, like 24 hours, simply yo make sure there's no wax left on the parts. Now if i really wanted to paint it, i would mix pigments with epoxy glue that can cure very slowly (and would work in a cold environement to make sure it cures more slowly. That's the tedious solituion, as epoxy is toxic, but way more efficient i guess than oil painting. Maybe using epoxy glue as a varnish would work aswell on oil/enamel/acrylic paint, but you'd have to be carefull not to pour some into the joints. I'm sorry i don't have any solution i like yet, and these are not my favorite since they require products that are potentialy dangerous for health.
Mr_props @ea_surebay. Thank you for your reply :).
Mr_props @echoplexic. I'm not sure she painted it at all. If left more than 24 hours inside white spirit, the material becomes plain white. Maybe you could try humbrol (enamel) colours, i think they should be reliable for such a work. Otherwise, Mr Hobby (acrylics) has a very nice line of products.
Mr_props @ea_surebay. Thank you for your comment and for the picture aswell :)
Mr_props @echoplexic. I understand. I fact when i made this, the only thing i had in mind was to make it as poseable as possible. I couldn't figure out a way to articulate 3d printed hair, nor how to rig such smallish parts, so ididn't even think seriously about it thinking that some kind od wig would give an interesting look to the puppet. I don't when i can try to create "hard" hair models but i'll think about it, thank you for the advice!
Mr_props @echoplexic. Hi! Unfortunately not. My goal was to get something 1/24th scale as there's a lot of products fitting this one. Unluckily, i can't scale it down any further due to the printing process. The only way to achieve that would be to reduce the limbs length, and it would result in a bulkier looking puppet. I tried googling 1/20th scale and didn't find much except scifi looking stuff and a few baroque pieces of furnitures available on Aliexpress...
Mr_props @echoplexic. Hi! Well i completely understand your question since i had trouble myself with finding the right paint. Shapeways recommend to use acrylic based paints but i prefer oil based paint or enamels. The paint itself will probably wear around the articulations due to friction. That's why i'm simply whitening the material using white spirit. If the coat is thick enough and the paint strong enough it shouldn't be a big problem, but then it means you have to be carefull not to apply to thick a layer on the shoulder joints as they won't move as easily after.
Mr_props @Annesdoll. Thank you for teliing me, i made a mistake and instead of defining the Xtreme detail pricing, i overwrote the FUD price. It shoul be ok now, thank you for telling me.
Mr_props @Brandon_T. Hi! I used Maya. It is precise enough although it is not an engineering software. Blender would have been a good tool too.
Mr_props @mmzxwolfblade. hi! most of the accessories will work including a vest, but i simply can't try all of them as there's way too many. the body is a thick as brick so there should be no trouble (may look awkward however?)
Mr_props @thecuteness5. Hi! In fact they won't. This is due to the fact that the alpha model line is supposed to be assembled by snaping the parts together. Resin is not resilient enough and would break. These heads are for the stringed type line of dolls. Thank you for your interest.
best,
Mr_props @jokerjester_campos. Hi! I tried to have some of the haircuts ambiguous enough so some of these could easily be used for female characters. I didn't try long hair as the head can't move as freely.
Mr_props @Allurose. Hi! Great job and nice pictures, thank you!
